Some old favorites remain dear to your heart, even as the actual impact of the flavors dull in direct comparison to your continuing gastronomic education. Le Pain Quotidien is one of those places. Like Joe Shanghai, it isn't as good as that first time, but unlike the land of soup dumplings, it still delivers enough to hold a special place in my food memory.
The main problem with LPQ is that the quality of their baguette has declined somewhat since the days of 2002 when I first discovered the Belgian bakery chain.
Everything else though is the same. It may be contrived, but I love their long trestle tables and the old quarter loaves of bread with slices in them serving as menu holders. I love slathering a chunk of baguette ripped off the loaf with a hearty smear of butter and then topping it with some crunchy sea salt. Le Pain Quotidien, 38 E. 19th St. (b/n B'way and Park), New York, NY

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