Publican

Let's talk about dinner in no apparent order except for the order of backwards. Hit up Publican again the other day. But this time not for Sunday dinner, but a truly legit meal.

We ended on this waffle with honey butter. If you're a waffle person, this I imagine, must be pretty up there. Light, crispy exterior that crackles as you bite down to a fluffy center. Mingled with some melting sweet honey butter, it packs a sugary punch. Too much for me.

I originally didn't want to get these ribs, but I'm glad the other fellas won out because it was super fatty and savory. Nicely charred up so people couldn't really tell I was mainly just eating fat.

These ramps with romesco, which I was so excited about, were a bit too raw for my tastes.

A pretty decent pig's ear salad, which I was happy to foist upon the other dining companions who had not yet experienced the happy surprise that is pig's ear salad. I prefer Purple Pig's rendition, but my friend thought that the buttermilk dressing was a nice, slightly acidic, counterpoint to the richness of the fried pig's ear.

Fries with a fried egg on top. There was much "Oh we must get this" brouhaha over the ordering of these fries, and all I've got to say is, "People. It's not that special." I'll take L'Express or Balthazar fries any day.

Grilled duck heart on some nicely charred toast. It was a bit difficult to appreciate the duck hearts as we split this amongst four, but I'd definitely order it again. I really like eating heart. Oh my, sounds a bit bloodthirsty, no?

Burrata with cauliflower. I enjoyed this, though the cream in the burrata was a bit more set than is my usual preference. I've had fun watching burrata gain prominence in American menus over the past few years, and it's illuminating to see new burrata ingredient pairings.

The general verdict on Publican is that if you are a pig fellow, it is definitely worth visiting, and worth visiting on a regular dining night.

Publican, 837 W. Fulton Market, Chicago, IL