Niu Sushi

Niu Sushi is in River North, and a decent joint for interesting maki rolls. It's a tad pricey, but it turns out because their rolls have twice as many pieces as any self-respecting sushi joint should rightly serve. I'll forgive them for their faults though because at least they have interesting menu items.

One wouldn't think it would be good as there are the typical warning signs of other Asian dishes on the menu, such as Tom Yum soup. Generally, if you see Pad Thai or wonton soup on the menu of an establishment that purports to serve sushi, one should find a way to extricate oneself from what is likely to be a disappointing experience.

And even so, despite the fact that I've forgiven Niu for its faults, one still needs to tread carefully. We started with a soft shell crab spring roll that was a messy experience. My fried crab got soggy in the dressing and mayonnaise in the roll, and it isn't something that I'd order again. It was a large roll and difficult to get all the flavors together in one bite.

We got suckered into ordering a new roll, which does not yet have a name, that has fried oyster. The Pesky Pescatarian and I love the fried oyster roll at the now defunct Ota-Ya and in the still going strong Tenzan. Niu's roll had too little fried oyster per bite, and the flavor of some broiled eel, seaweed salad, and cream cheese overwhelmed the experience.

There was a roll with uni and ikura that was crazy good, and for that roll alone I remain fond of the joint.

Niu Sushi, 332 East Illinois St., Chicago, IL

Oysy Sushi

It's hard ending up in a new city and not having one's posse of the food-obsessed. One must ping-pong amongst local restaurants like any other rube off the street. I do believe that you can judge the quality of one's life by one's problems, and admittedly, in the grand scheme of things, trying to find an excellent sushi restaurant does not rank up there with trying not to get HIV or starve to death.

But hey, it's the new year, and perspective is better suited for Thanksgiving and the rest of those year-end holidays.

Oysy Sushi is better than Butterfly Sushi, but I know there is better out there. Chicago may not have an ocean, but it does have a decent airport hub, and so long as one doesn't worry about one's carbon footprint, there must be better possibilities.

My main problem with Oysy is that the rice is a tad dense, and the flavors in the maki rolls are not perfectly balanced. Ten-zan in New York is very good on the flavor-balancing front. Taraval Okazu-Ya is very good on the interesting flavor-combination front, but they are so sloppy with execution that the proportion and balance of ingredients is often off.

Oysy Sushi, 888 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL

Sobaya

My mom came to New York to help me with the move to Chicago. (Apparently her coworkers gave her a lot of grief for flying out to help her grown daughter handle a move. I'm spoiled.)

We made the mistake of going to Sobaya rather than hitting up Ippudo one last time. I was so encouraged by my experience at Sobakoh, that I wanted to give this well-known soba joint a try. We started out with an agedashi tofu that was nice, but the tofu could have been a bit silkier.

Mom went with soba in a hot broth and lots of vegetables, that was frankly, rather bland.

In trying to echo the uni ikura soba at Sobakoh, I opted for sticky yam and uni soba. The sticky yam and unctuous uni coated each strand of soba in a rather unappetizing fashion. It was a bad call on my part. Sobaya's noodles are denser than Sobakoh's, and I have to admit I prefer the latter.

Sobaya, 229 E. 9th St. (b/n 2nd and 3rd), New York, NY

Sobakoh

Grilled Chilean Sea Bass at Sobakoh. So tender and flaky it was hard to feel guilty about eating Chilean Sea Bass, which just goes to show you how powerfully tasty the fish is.

Chicken wings. Makes me wish I were at Mad for Chicken. There are wing wars going on with Pizza Hut and Dominos, but I dream of the Korean fried chicken wing wars.

Savory and fatty duck prosciutto, with a yuzu rind condiment. The citrus was a perfect complement to the duck.

Soba risotto.

An amazing uni ikura soba. I mean truly amazing. They make their soba on premises, and I man works in a tiny cubby-hole of a space in the front, where pedestrians can observe his artistry.

Green tea ice cream with sweet red beans.

Sesame black pudding. Rich, aromatic, a lovely finish.

Sobakoh, 309 E. 5th St. (nr. Second Ave.), New York, NY

Rai Rai Ken

Hiyashi Chuka, cold Japanese noodles. A revelation the first time I had them, but after trying Yakitori Totto's noodles, these never seem as good. Sadly, Yakitori Totto no longer has those noodles on its summer's menu, but Ippudo had a cold noodle option on its offerings this summer, and I, idiot that I am, didn't order them. Now I'm in Chicago, and there's fog blanketing the city, and I don't even feel right thinking about cold noodles. Life is cruel man. Wicked cruel.

Rai Rai Ken, 214 E. 10th St. (b/n 2nd and 1st), NY, NY

Kyotofu

After dinner at Aburiya Kinnosuke, my friend and I decided to stick with the Asian theme. We debated going to either Mad for Chicken or Kyotofu, and for once sweet Japanese won out over savory Korean. This Soymilk Soft Ice Cream Sundae with kuromitsu whipped cream, mixed berry compote and matcha mochi was simple and fun.

One feels so virtuous eating tofu desserts. They all taste lighter than cream-based traditional sweets. The Signature Sweet Tofu with white sesame tuile, kuromitsu black sugar syru and dried apricot was the most mild of our trio of desserts, but the sweet tofu being notably less sweet and shadow more firm than expected.

Hands down favorite was the Passionfruit Tofu Cheesecake with coconut sorbet and yamamomo peach. It was light and jiggly and smooth and sweet and wonderful.

Kyotofu, 705 9th Ave. (b/n 48-49th), New York, NY, 212-974-6012

Aburiya Kinnosuke

My intimacy with Japanese food beyond the world of sushi is a rather new relationship. Though I started eating sushi nearly twenty years ago, while still a child in elementary school, I grew up thinking sushi encompassed the bulk of Japanese cuisine, and was therefore everyday food. An invitation while in high school to a Japanese New Year celebration at a friend's home, with every available flat surface of the home covered with platters of beautifully and meticulously prepared food, was my first indication that the world of Japanese food extended far beyond the borders of maki, nigiri and sashimi. But it was only when I moved to New York that I began to slowly explore the contours of this multi-faceted cuisine.

Aburiya Kinnosuke in a restaurant tucked away in a corner of Midtown, and a recent visit had me marvelling at stumbling upon yet another Japanese restaurant in Manhattan whose menu and clientele bespoke more of their mother country than anything reflecting America's melting pot.

It can be difficult navigating menus for cuisines with which one is not familiar, with no personal history to hint at which dishes are likely to be extraordinary. At Sigiri and Saravannaas, I struggled to choose amongst an array of equally meaningless dish titles.

But at Sigiri's I started out with a guide: a friend who had visited before, and at Saravanaas, I had perused restaurant reviews. My dining companion had suggested Aburiya for dinner but hadn't visited himself, and in a moment of recklessness and sloth had failed to do the appropriate research prior to our visit.

As a result, there not was noted by its fireworks, but rather became the examination of several carefully prepared dishes that were all good, sometimes noteworthy of pause, but they also failed to elicit exclamations of delight just as often.

What I'm really saying is that I think Aburiya may be really good. But we screwed up on the ordering because we had no idea what we were doing, but I see potential.

It is also a place that screams authentically Japanese, and a visit to expand your understanding of what that means can only but do you good.

Aburiya Kinnosuke, 213 E. 45th St. (b/n 3rd and 2nd), New York, NY, 212-867-5454

Best meal of the trip

Our best meal of the three week trip to Indonesia was not in Indonesia. It was in the Ueno district of Tokyo.

We had an eight hour layover in Narita airport on our multi-leg journey back to the states, and my brother and I opted to take the train into Ueno to try and find a decent meal. Our plane landed a bit after seven in the morning, and by the time we went past customs and got on the train, it wasn't until 10am that we arrived in Ueno. We had some time to kill, so we roamed the food market in this mall that was only a few blocks from the train station. It was like a Japanese version of the food section at Harrod's. In other words, awesome.

Then we made our way over to Ameyoko-cho, which had tons of vendors setting up for a day of selling, including fish mongers with enticing displays of fresh seafood. In the end, we decided to choose the above restaurant, which was just opening up around 11am. We saw a Japanese business man pop in and hoped we would be in good hands.

It turns out we were. The restaurant consist of a small cooking area with a wrap-around bar, where individuals can pool up a stool and order their lunch.

A steaming vat of tonkotsu broth simmered away as we decided which picture on the menu looked tastiest.

My brother went with a more traditional, miso ramen. When that bowl arrived, his bent his head down, started slurping and didn't come up until he was done.

I opted for a kimchee ramen and was soon a very very happy woman. The noodles were more similar to Momofuku's than Ippudo's, but they were thicker and chewier than even David Chang's. I loved it. Wish I had a second stomach so I could have ordered more. But life is not always fair.

Some ramen restaurant, Ueno district, Tokyo, Japan

Yakitori Totto

After watching Billy Elliot, dumb kid brother and I met up with his roommate (who had refused to see a musical) at Yakitori Totto.

I'd like to think I have some pretty refined tastebuds, and it's hard for me to accept that not everyone may agree. This wonderfully cool and simple tofu didn't wow the kiddos. But a highlight for them is Gordo's burrito in San Francisco.

The sticky yam with the pickled plum paste really didn't do it for dumb kid brother.

No problem, I ate his share for him. What is wrong with kids these days.

Even these lovely fried fish with wasabi salt, only emitted a quiet comment from dumb kid brother that this is just what mommy and daddy used to make all the time.

Thanks for raining on my parade buster. You can have your lamb chop.

The enoki bacon yakitori elicited no complaints, but it's enoki and bacon. You'd have to be daft in the head to not like this.

Thankfully, the apricot tofu elicited some head nods of appreciation. These kids from the country really don't know a great thing when they see i.

Never mind if by country I mean the center of San Francisco. And I do have to concede that these pork croquettas sucked.

Momofuku Noodle Bar

Despite their short stay, I thought in order for dumb kid brother and friend to truly understand the ramen wars, a visit to Momofuku Noodle was in order. Verdict on the pork buns: needed more sauce, but otherwise superior.

Thank goodness they seemed to favor Ippudo. Momofuku's ramen tastes better to me each time I go, but I know how to be loyal.

Ippudo and a Spate of Pretty Pictures

I've got just under an hour before this day is over, but gosh darn it I'm going to get Friday's post up just under the wire.

I've been running around trying to finish up with packing for a trip to Indonesia. Leaving crack of dawn tomorrow morning, and I still haven't done my pre-blogging for nearly three weeks.

While I'm gone, I'm hoping to catch you up on some of the eating exploits of the last few weeks.

Not too long ago, my brother visited with this roommate, who has a pretty amazing camera that takes disgustingly better pictures than my own.

Considering how much I've already written about Ippudo, here, here and here, I thought I'd just leave you with the photos and spare you my delirious thoughts.

The Mother of All Food Crawls

I was going to write about dinner at Uva with a high school friend visiting with her husband from California, but then I remembered that back in 2005, pre-engagement, the two of them visited and embarked upon the Mother of All Food Crawls.

We're talking fourteen food stops in 48 hours.

View The Mother of All Food Crawls in a larger map

Some were planned, some spontaneous. Myself and two high school friends (G and K) living in New York took around S and A from the Bay Area for a whirlwhind eating tour. I stole these pictures from my friend, and here we go

Day 1, ~10:30 p.m. Sushi Samba, planned
A complimentary appetizer of flash-fried Japanese river crabs because we had to wait a really long time for our table despite making 9:45 p.m. reservations.

Not pictured: edamame, blistered Shishito peppers, fried calamari.

Neo Tokyo Roll (yellowfin tuna, tempura flakes, and aji panca); Green Envy Roll (wasabi pea crust, tuna, salmon, asparagus, and aji); Pacific Roll (king crab, avocado, Asian pear, soy paper, and wasabi-avocado cream).

Two orders of Kampachi (Japanese yellowtail) Sashimi Tiradito with yuzu, black truffle oil, and sea salt.

Yellowtail Ceviche with ginger, garlic and soy.

Miso-marinated Chilean Sea Bass.

Day 1: ~12:00 a.m., Flute Bar, unplanned

Foie gras platter, smoked salmon platter, and bubbly obviously.

Day 1: ~1:00 a.m., L'Express, unplanned

Somehow we decided we needed Dinner #2.

Steak tartare with mesclun greens, moules frites, chocolate mousse cake, tarte tatin.

Day 2: 8:00 a.m., Norma's, planned

We ate family style modified for individual orders, while sitting around a circular table. Five people, five dishes, eat one-fifth, pass to left.

Seared rock lobster and asparagus omelette with home fries.

Crab cakes spice with Habanero peppers with dill yogurt mustard sauce.

Mandarin Orange French Toast.

Artichoke Benedict

Day 2, ~10:00 a.m., nap

Four friends passed out on my bed.

Day 2, ~12:30 p.m., Rice to Riches, unplanned

Marscapone rice pudding.

Pear rice pudding.

Day 2: ~1:30 p.m., Cafe Habana, planned

Mexican grilled corn with this delicious mayonnaise slathered all over; chicken diablo sandwich with fries; avocado and white cheese sandwich with fries; Cuban sandwich with fries, chicken dish with beans.

Someone couldn't wait for the food-paparazzi picture.

Day 2: ~3:30 p.m., il laboratorio del gelato, planned

Twelve flavors available, five people, 2 flavors per small serving, the solution seemed obvious.

Which two flavors did we not want to try?

Chocolate gelato, rum raisin gelato, vanilla rum gelato, peanut butter gelato, papaya sorbet, tangerine sorbet, coffee gelato, green tea gelato, raspberry gelato, lemon sorbet.

Day 2: ~6:30 p.m., Joe Shanghai, planned

Three orders of crab and pork soup dumplings, one order of pork soup dumplings, one order of string beans with pickles.

Day 2, ~9:00 p.m., A Salt & Battery, planned

It's so sad, the Second Avenue location has closed. You'll have to go to the west side for your fish 'n chips fix now.

One large order of cod bites, one small order of chips.

Gone in no time. End of a long day, but we've still got it!

Day 3: ~8:00 a.m., Le Pain Quotidien, planned

I like the 19th street location best because they bake the bread there.

One Tuscan Platter of Parmesan, ham, tapenade, the some amazing ricotta, pesto, sun dried tomatoes, olives and greens.

Mesclun greens salad.

Two orders of baguette with jam and praline spread.

Day 3: ~10:30 a.m., Artisanal, unplanned

Large basket of gougeres.

Sinful Experience Flight: Humboldt Fog (goat, California, airy yet rich, tangy finish); Brillat Savarin (cow, French, velvety, neutral to pronounced; Robiolo Due Latte (cow, Italy: yielding, lactic subtle).

Sampled of cheese condiments and some Langres to the left (cow, France, salty but not too aggressive, smoky)

Great Iberian Peninsula Flight: Serra de Estrella (sheep, Portugal, rich, intense, subtle toffee finish); Pau (goat, Spain, creamy, slightly sweet and nutty); Cabrales (3-milk, Spain, complex, buttery, numbingly intense)

Day 3: ~1:30 p.m. Alice's Tea Cup, planned

We went to the UWS location, but they've got the east side covered now too.

Scones: pumpkin, orange walnut, strawberry chocolate, banana butterscotch.

Clotted cream and jam.

Carrot-Cumin Sandwich.

Alice's tea and Rooibus Bourbon tea.

Day 3: ~6:00 p.m., Ota-Ya, planned

Sadly, this place has closed down. They had the best tempura. Now the next best option in the neighborhood is Tenzan for fantastic rolls.

Shrimp tempura.

Black Draft Roll, Crispy Salmon Roll, Mexican Roll, Volcano Roll, three orders of "white tuna" sashimi.

Day 3: ~8:30 p.m., Chola Eclectic, planned

Uttapam (rice and lentil vegetable pancake)

Chicken chutneywalla (curried mango chicken, mint, coriander, fresh ginger); Goa fish curry (spiced Chilean Sea Bass, fresh coconut, tamarind, chili-tomato sauce); Murli's chingri malai (spiced shrimp, raisins, ginger, fennel infused, tomatoes-coconut sauce); Bhindi masala (sauteed okra, onions, bell peppers, ginger, fresh tomatoes.)